Xinjiang specialty food big plate chicken

National Highway 312 starts from Shanghai and ends at Horgos, Xinjiang, with a total length of about 5,000 kilometers. This national highway passes through eight provinces, municipalities and autonomous regions, including Shanghai, Jiangsu, Anhui, Henan, Hubei, Shaanxi, Gansu, Ningxia and Xinjiang. This is the earliest route for the spread of Dapanji, and its starting point is Shawan, Xinjiang.

In the 1990s, Dapanji spread through National Highway 312, conquered all national and provincial highways, and along all the narrow county and township roads, becoming a favorite dish of many Chinese people. Of course, this was not the end. In the meantime, Dapanji spread westward along the Tianshan Mountains into Central Asia and then further westward, and eastward across the ocean into Chinese restaurants in America.

When we were collecting information and preparing to make a Dapanji distribution map, we found that this contemporary fashionable dish, Dapanji, has traveled along the distant Silk Road in the past twenty years, leaving too many fresh and fragrant scents on that territory where many civilizations complement each other.

The relationship between Dapanji and roads began at the beginning of its creation. Twenty or thirty years ago, the 312 National Highway passed through Shawan County, forming all the streets of the county. The most important businesses, businesses, and talents of a county settled along the road, with doors, windows, and eyes facing the road. At that time, there was no saying "If you want to be rich, build roads first", and the popular saying among the people was "If you want to be rich, build roads". The highway was the main economic artery of the country at that time, and it also connected everyone's economic artery. Earlier, Shawan County was moved from Lao Shawan to Sandaohezi just to build this road.

In the western suburbs of the county, the houses were built almost randomly and were very simple. They were all low-rise flat-roofed houses with a large pergola. This pergola was very important. At that time, it was the symbol of the canteen and hotel on the roadside. Another feature was that the houses were kept a distance from the road to facilitate the parking of large trucks. Such canteens, hotels, and shops were densely packed on both sides of the road, forming the basic concept of the urban-rural junction of every county in Xinjiang, and they were much more lively than the county. Shawan's western suburbs at that time also had the nickname "Shanghai Beach", which has been called this way until today.

"Shanghai Beach" is not just because the other end of the road is connected to Shanghai. The money, information and consumption patterns brought by truck and car drivers in that newly opened frontier area caused social unrest and attempts to change the situation. It became the breeding ground for many social, economic and cultural events in Shawan later.

In 1989, truck drivers discovered that a new dish appeared in a restaurant called "Manpengge" in Shawan "Shanghai Beach". It served fried whole chicken to customers on a large plate, which could be mixed with belt noodles. The taste was better than the fried noodles, mixed noodles, and meatball soup provided by all the restaurants along the way. At that time, the drivers were considered the most powerful group of people in China. Not only did they have high salaries, but they could also privately carry goods, repair cars, and resell goods along the way. Extra money came easily and was spent generously. The big plate chicken was large and meaty, and it tasted refreshing and gave people an outlet to vent their inflated desires. For a time, the big plate chicken became a symbol of the poor showing off their generosity and the nouveau riche showing off their sentimentality.

Later, when society was less impetuous, Dapanji did not fall into disrepair. Thanks to the timely follow-up of Dapanji culture, the cultural meaning of Dapanji gradually became clear, making it a symbol of the rough and majestic western food style. Dapanji gradually became a representative of Xinjiang cuisine and went to a wider world. On the menu of the 2008 Beijing Olympics, two Xinjiang dishes were on the menu, the first was Dapanji and the second was Cumin Bone Stew.

Now, Dapanji can be found in all cities and counties across the country. What is even more valuable is that all eight major Chinese cuisines, which are famous for their differences, have now accepted and integrated Dapanji.

Xinjiang culture has the inherent characteristics of diverse expressions and integration of diversity. Dapanji undoubtedly inherits this cultural heritage the most. After its appearance, Dapanji quickly became a delicacy that people with different eating habits and cultural backgrounds like, which has its reasons.

After the creation of Dapanji, it created a miracle in the history of food communication. This delicious food has its own legs. It has become popular since its creation. Stores have been opened all the way. It can go as far as the road. In just a few years, it has become popular in the north and spread to the south of the Yangtze River. No food in history has ever had such a rapid and sensational spread effect after its appearance. Now if you Baidu Dapanji, more than 6 million web pages will appear, and its fans are enduring and spread all over the country.

With National Highway 312 as the boundary, as Dapanji spread northward, it became more and more like a man as it went northward. The plates became larger, the meat, noodles, and side dishes became more and more coarse, and people ate it more heartily. Dapanji in Jinan, Shenyang, and Hohhot is a snack for the public and passers-by. Northerners are simple and practical. Instead of seven plates and eight bowls, it is better to eat a big plate. Dapanji developed southward is different. Not only are the meat and vegetables refined, but the noodles have become belt noodles, and the side dishes have changed from potatoes to taro and even lotus root slices. In Guangzhou, Hangzhou, and Nanjing, the big and spicy flavors of Dapanji have basically disappeared, and the sweet Dapanji is often used as a fast food for the petty bourgeoisie at noon, and they chew it with relish.

Even in Xinjiang, the big plate chicken in southern Xinjiang, northern Xinjiang and eastern Xinjiang has its own merits. The big plate chicken in Hami has a relatively neutral taste, mild spiciness, and highlights the original flavor of chicken and side dishes. People from all provinces can accept it. The big plate chicken in southern Xinjiang is more adapted to the taste of the Uyghurs. It is less spicy, pays attention to stir-frying, has a strong color, and has the taste of cumin. The big plate chicken in northern Xinjiang is the closest to the spicy and stimulating taste of the early days. The side dishes are mainly potatoes. At the same time, green onions, peppers, and ginger are not only condiments, but also important ingredients for big plate chicken. The spicy taste is spicy. Of course, this feature is more retained in Shawan, Wusu, and Kuitun. In Yili, Tacheng, and Urumqi, the peppers used are often no longer the spicy varieties produced in Shawan Anjihai, which are called "screw peppers" by Xinjiang people. Green peppers are usually vegetables or dishes that don't know what the taste is. The taste of some big plate chickens has become a business taste that adapts to everyone, or in other words, the name is still big plate chicken, but it is actually a big plate of food. Many people try Dapanji once and then turn their backs on it, which means they eat something that is not worthy of its reputation. A dish that is so famous must have its unique features, and its original taste must be kept in the place where it was created.

In Gansu and Shaanxi, some stores serve Dapanji with two or four small dishes, which are cold dishes, pickles or pickled garlic. The portions are not large, but they are a token of the store's intention to keep customers, and they also make up for the lack of taste of Dapanji. In fact, they may not know that they have grasped the essence of Dapanji cuisine by serving dishes like this. Dapanji can only be served with seasoning side dishes or home-cooked dishes. On a table, Dapanji is only delicious when it is the only dish. This is the nature of roadside food. So many businesses see the selling point of Dapanji and want to make it a hot-selling dish in hotels or a hot business in cities, but they often fail. Dapanji is a snack no matter how big it is. It is just a special snack on a large plate. This feature is suitable for the pleasure of travelers on the roadside and the natural and fragrant mood of suburban farmers, but it is not suitable for halls and pavilions, and it is not suitable for being evaluated among the finely cooked northern and southern delicacies. Dapanji is a street dish, a street food. If you leave the street, it is like Chen Huansheng going to the city, looking for trouble. Now on the menus of all the big hotels in Xinjiang, Dapanji is a recommended specialty dish, but it is more for satisfying the curiosity of guests. When guests take a few chopsticks to taste the new food, their attention will be overwhelmed by other delicacies that keep coming up. In fact, in order to cater to the tastes of all kinds of guests, when cooking Dapanji, the hotel has tried its best to lean towards the flavor of its own cuisine and cut off many of the original things.

When Dapanji was introduced to the world, although there were various variants and branches, its rough habits have not changed anywhere in the past 20 to 30 years, which is not a good thing. At least in terms of adapting to cities and joining the mainstream of hotels, there has been no fruitful development. Dapanji has a banditry in the north, a romantic style in the south, and has won the attention of the countryside, but it has never been able to enter the core area of ​​​​the city, which is the core area of ​​​​foodies, leaving a gap in the market.

In contrast to the way of Dapanji, there is another chicken in this process, which completely ignores the countryside and only promotes the values ​​it carries through the civilized channel of the city, and is doing very well. Being very well is its goal, because its core purpose is not business, but attention. This chicken is called KFC. The West is quietly changing the world through a kind of fragrant food.

The United States promotes its values ​​to the world, using chicken as a pioneer. Why choose chicken? Because chicken has no religious or ethnic color. The same is true for the fact that Dapanji appeared in Shawan and spread to all parts of the world immediately. Shawan’s creation of Dapanji has already occupied a high ground in the spread of food culture.

If KFC embodies the unique individual spirit and the freedom to do one's own thing, then Dapanji embodies the long-standing "harmony culture" of China.

Dapanji embodies the integration and tolerance of culture. Dapanji should be the product of the combination of Han cuisine and Western food traditions. The essence of Dapanji is that the main dish and side dishes, and the side dishes complement each other and are inseparable from each other. It breaks through the original single and independent cooking method of Xinjiang cuisine. It is a great contribution to Xinjiang cuisine and also reflects the cultural spirit of traditional Chinese cooking that pursues the aggregation of ingredients, the harmony of five flavors, humanity and harmony.

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